Getting to Zambia was a bit difficult, as although we are SADC residents and our passports are welcome without hinderance, entrance to South Africa from Zambia requires vaccination from Yellow Fever. This injection is costly, but will last ten years. I took the opportunity to have some other vaccinations required to visit other parts of Africa.

Arrival in Livingstone was quite something, the airport is tiny. International Arrivals has two flights a day (it seems), each of which turn about and depart shortly thereafter. Both are from Johannesburg. It looks as though there is very little by way of other commercial traffic. Once through immigration, baggage claim and customs, we were met by Bushtracks Africa who transferred us through Livingstone, to the Sun International Zambia Resort. The slight tour that was included as we drove through Livingstone (not more than 10 minutes drive) shows exactly how poor Zambia is. The town is very old, and could be in better condition. Nevertheless, the atmosphere is very lively and friendly. We found that the Zambian people quite friendly overall.

The Sun International Resort has two hotels within it. The family oriented, three star Zambezi Sun; and the more sophisticated, five star Royal Livingstone Hotel. We were privileged to be staying at The Royal Livingstone, which from the word go was a superb experience. Have a look at the separate review for my views on the hotel. We were treated to some magnificent views of the Zambezi River, both from the hotel itself (and its riverside sun deck) and from our rooms. While we were on the river above the falls, we had a splendid view of the “smoke” arising from them.

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Both hotels are within close walking distance to the falls (the Zambezi Sun is, in fact, closer but does not have a river view) and free entrance to the park is included to guests. A raincoat is suggested when going to see the falls, but were provided by the porters at The Royal Livingstone. Three nights was enough to enjoy the service, the ambiance and the grandeur of the colonial explorer style architecture and personal of the hotel. Indeed, the hotel apart, Livingstone reminded us of what Pilgrims Rest may be like if it was still a bustling town today.

The Zambezi River is the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, so sitting on the banks of the river at the hotel gives you a look into Zimbabwe. A significant percentage, however, of the falls themselves are in Zambia. Despite this, it is impossible to see most of the falls from the Zambian park, including the main water courses. December/January seems like a good time to see the falls as the water flow has begun to fill the falls, but it is not so full that the spray from the falls obscures your vision entirely. In the dry season, it is very possible that there will be no water flowing over the Eastern Cataract, which is all that you can view in Zambia.

Visiting the Zimbabwean side of the falls can be a somewhat difficult thing to do as you have to pass through two border posts to get to Zim and then two more to return (obviously). I received four new stamps in my passport within the space of two hours. This isn’t too much of a problem for SADC residents, but can be a big problem for foreign tourists. We organised a small tour to drive us as far as the Zim border post (you don’t need your passport to just walk onto the famous 1905 railway bridge) and then on foot a short distance into the Victoria Falls National Park, where we were stunned by the magnificent sheet of water falling over the ~1700m wide falls.

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Victoria Falls, or more correctly Mosi-Oa-Tunya (The Smoke that Thunders), was discovered by European explorers in November 1855 by Dr David Livingstone who was a missionary- turned explorer from Scotland who was first brought to the falls by natives onto a little island now known as Livingstone Island. Livingstone said of the falls that they were so beautiful that they must have been gazed upon by angels. Indeed he then went on to name them after his Sovereign, Queen Victoria. Despite this, the African name is far more accurate and beautiful. The trip into Zim was well worth it, and comes highly recommended. It is my opinion that the Zim park is better maintained and certainly has better views than the Zambian park. You do, however, get closer to the falling water in Zambia, especially off of Knife’s Edge Bridge (which in the torrential spray is very scary.)

We had the opportunity to see in 2012 against the lovely backdrop of both the Victoria Falls and The Royal Livingstone. They put on a splendid special Silver Jazz themed, six course meal, which filled up the evening till 23h00, followed by a few fine whiskeys at the Livingstone Bar. We saw in 2012 to Auld-Lang-Syne, while (quoting Dr Livingstone) “commending ourselves to the merry midnight frogs.”

Our stay was fantastic and well worth the trip. The Sun International Zambia Resort is well worth it, and I can not recommend The Royal Livingstone enough.